What Is the Best Staff Grip?

There are a ton of grips used in flow arts for staffs and other stick props, which can make choosing one feel overwhelming when you’re getting into dragon, contact, spin, or double staff. The right grip can make a huge difference, sometimes being the line between easily learning new moves and struggling with the basics.

In this post, I’ll cover the most common grips you’ll come across. This isn’t everything available worldwide, but it should give you a solid understanding of the pros and cons of the most widely used options.

Note: Everyone’s skin texture is different, so what works great for one person might not work as well for someone else. The “best grip” is an opinion.

We are gonna cover the following staff grips:

• Silicone Grip Tubing (as well as some other silicone based grips)
• Industrial Rubber Grip (F-Grip, EPDM, Goat Grip)
• Natural Foam Rubber Grip (Wizard, Ohm, yoga mat grips)
• Micro Gripping Material (3M, Sage, Gecko, Omni….)
• Sports Grips

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Silicone Grip Tubing

Silicone tubing is currently my favorite grip that’s widely available. It’s one of the most grippy materials when clean and dry. Silicone is also very heat resistant, which is why silicone self-fusing tape is commonly used to seal the ends of grips on fire staffs. The wall thickness is usually 1.5mm for this tubing.

Some people find it uncomfortable because it can be so grippy that it tugs at hair, but it’s generally safer on skin compared to industrial rubber grips. It’s also widely available, not just from flow prop companies but from hardware stores around the world.

Because it’s a continuous tube, silicone is one of the easiest grips to clean. My go-to method is wiping it down with rubbing alcohol on a rag. You can also spray it directly and wipe it off. Silicone performs best when it’s clean and dry, so I usually keep a rag and some rubbing alcohol in my prop bag to freshen it up. This also helps remove soot from fire props.

With proper care, silicone tubing can last for years. That said, if you live in a consistently humid environment or tend to sweat a lot, it may be less ideal since you’ll need to wipe it down more frequently. I still make it work, and I sweat a lot 🤣.

Silicone tubing should be installed on a clean staff with all wicks removed, and any residue cleaned or lightly sanded. The tubing should have an inside diameter about 1/8” or 3mm smaller than the staff’s outside diameter. To install, use mildly soapy water to lubricate the tube and slide it on, then let it fully dry. It’s easier on dragon staffs with removable hubs and can be trickier on some contact staffs.

Durometer also matters. Lower durometers (35A to 40A) are softer and feel more gummy and grippy, while higher durometers (50A to 70A) are firmer and less tacky.

Other Silicone-Based Grip Options

There are also some silicone grips that don’t come as tubing. They’ve generally been made to try and help performance under more wet conditions where silicone isn’t always the best option.

• Gravity Grip (LMF Props): A crisscross textured silicone strip that can perform better in wet conditions than smooth tubing. Availability is unclear right now.
• Nimbus Grip (Dark Monk): A silicone foam strip that that can also perform better in wet conditions than smooth tubing. It needs to be sanded before use to rough up the surface.

In conclusion:

• Silicone is one of the most grippy materials available
• Tubing is easy to source
• Durable and generally skin safe
• Performs best when clean and dry
• Easy to clean with rubbing alcohol or soapy water
• Less ideal in humid, dusty, or super sweaty conditions

Industrial Rubber Grips

The most common industrial rubber grips are F-Grip, EPDM, and Goat Grip. All three are widely available through flow prop shops around the world and each has its own feel and use case.

F-Grip

F-Grip is a textured black rubber grip originally popularized in strip form, similar to EPDM and Goat Grip. More recently, it’s being produced in pre-cut tube segments (around 20 cm each), which are installed similarly to silicone tubing. Since they’re not one continuous tube, you’ll typically need 6-8 tubes to cover a full staff.

This grip sits in an interesting middle ground. It combines some of the best qualities of silicone and EPDM. The texture provides grip rather than relying purely on tackiness, and it performs well even when there’s some moisture involved. It doesn’t need a break-in period like EPDM and doesn’t leave behind black residue.

Compared to silicone, it doesn’t quite have the same level of grip when completely dry, but it holds up better once things get sweaty or humid. Compared to EPDM and Goat Grip, it feels a bit more naturally tacky due to the rubber composition.

It won’t last quite as long as EPDM or Goat Grip, but it holds up significantly better than softer natural rubber grips like yoga mat-based options. Because it comes in tubing form, it’s also relatively easy to clean.

Right now, F-Grip tubing is typically sized for 22mm (7/8”) staffs, so compatibility is something to keep in mind.

EPDM

EPDM is a synthetic rubber commonly used for seals, gaskets, and weatherproofing. It’s durable, weather-resistant, and performs well in humid or dusty environments after it’s broken in. It’s also the lightest of all the industrial rubber grips, so if weight is an important factor this is a good option!

It has a slightly softer, more padded feel compared to other rubber grips. EPDM usually comes in strips and is applied by spiraling it around the staff. If it doesn’t have adhesive, double-sided tape is recommended since it’s much easier to remove than glue.

One downside is that EPDM can feel a bit slippery when brand new. It needs a short break-in period, but once it’s worn in, it becomes noticeably grippier and ages like fine wine. You can speed this up by LIGHTLY sanding the surface.

Cleaning is simple. Just wipe it down with a damp rag. It doesn’t need frequent cleaning unless it starts to feel oily.

One interesting side note is that EPDM has a tendency to leave a black residue on your hands, especially when first being broken in. It might not be the best option if you are wearing white clothes 😭.

Goat Grip

Goat Grip is made from a crisscross-textured industrial rubber. It has a rougher, more aggressive texture compared to EPDM and is generally more durable than both EPDM and F-Grip. It performs well in most environments.

Goat Grip tends to last longer than most other grips. Installation and cleaning are similar to EPDM since it also comes in strip form. Some people find the texture too rough on their skin, while others swear by it. This one really comes down to personal preference, but it is one of the most used grips!

Although it’s about the same thickness as EPDM, it’s a more solid rubber in comparison, so it doesn’t feel as padded or soft.

Note: Although used globally as staff grip, industrial rubber was never originally intended to make constant contact with human skin. The flow arts is a relatively small niche compared to other sports and fitness activities, so the safety of industrial rubbers on skin for prolonged use is not well studied or documented.

In Conclusion

• Industrial rubber grips are generally durable and weather-resistant
• F-Grip offers a balance of texture and tackiness and performs well in varied conditions
• EPDM has a softer feel and becomes grippier over time
• Goat Grip is rougher, textured, and lasts longer than EPDM
• Strip-style grips are easier to install on props that don’t require wick removal
• Long-term skin safety of industrial rubber is not well documented

Natural Foam Rubber Grips (Yoga Mats)

Most companies use different names for their natural foam rubber grips, but they’re all pretty similar and made from natural yoga mats. Common examples include Wizard Grip (Wizard of Flow) and Ohm Grip (Dark Monk). These grips are fabric-reinforced and come in pre-cut lengths, usually around 6ft.

These grips are generally safe on skin since they’re originally natural yoga mats. They’re also some of the most grippy options available and were my personal favorite for a long time. They perform well in most environments.

The main tradeoff is durability. Natural materials break down much faster than synthetic grips, which includes most other options mentioned in this article. Depending on how often you use your staff, how humid or sweaty your environment is, and how it’s stored, this could mean regripping every 4–6 months, or a bit longer with lighter use and proper care.

These grips come in strips and are spiraled onto the staff. If they don’t have adhesive backing, I recommend using double-sided tape instead of glue. Compared to synthetic grips, they can be more annoying to remove, especially once they start breaking down and leaving chunks behind. This is even worse if glue was used during installation.

Note: No grip should be left in direct sunlight for long periods, as UV exposure breaks down materials over time. Natural foam rubber grips degrade much faster than synthetic ones.

In conclusion:

• Generally safe on skin
• One of the most grippy options available
• Perform well in most environments
• Break down faster than synthetic grips
• Can be more difficult to remove once worn

Micro Gripping Material

Similar to natural foam rubber grips, every company has its own name for this type of grip, but most versions trace back to 3M, a large tape manufacturer. The most common variant is TB641, along with a few similar options.

Over the years, this material has been rebranded and sold as:

• Gecko Grip (Flow on Fire)
• Sage Grip (Wizard of Flow)
• Omni Grip (Dark Monk)
• Black Overgrip (Ninja Pyrate)

These grips are very thin and come with an adhesive backing, so they’re best used as an overgrip on top of something like foam or EPDM rather than applied directly to a bare staff.

The standout feature is the micro hair-like elastomer texture. It feels soft on the skin while still providing a high level of grip. The texture is very different from other grips because of these tiny rubber fibers. My partner calls it “cat tongue grip” 😅.

In terms of durability, these grips are similar to natural foam rubber. They hold up reasonably well but won’t last as long as more durable options like silicone, EPDM, or Goat Grip. They perform well in most conditions, but since they’re thin, they rely on an underlying layer for structure and padding.

In recent years, the cost of this material from 3M has increased significantly. Because of that, many companies have raised their prices accordingly, and staffs using this grip tend to be more expensive. That said, it’s still widely used because of how unique the feel is.

In Conclusion

• Less durable than silicone and industrial rubber options
• Expensive compared to most other grips
• Soft, micro-textured surface
• Grippy in most conditions
• Very thin, best used as an overgrip

Sports Grips

Sports grips are a broad category that includes grips used in tennis, hockey, racquetball, biking, baseball, and more. While they’re designed for sports, most of those use cases don’t translate well to flow props, so I don’t generally recommend them for dragon staff or contact staff. That said, they are made with skin contact in mind, so they’re generally safe on skin.

Racket, baseball bat, and hockey grips are usually much thinner than most of the grips we’ve talked about (aside from microfiber overgrips). When they’re this thin, they’re often referred to as overgrips. They also come in shorter lengths, so you’ll likely need multiple pieces to cover a full staff.

Because they’re so thin, they don’t offer much padding, which can make contact-based props uncomfortable to use. They also tend to wear out faster and need to be replaced more often.

On the positive side, they come in a huge variety of colors and patterns, which makes them a fun option if aesthetics matter. If your prop doesn’t rely heavily on contact, like tech doubles or batons, they can be a solid choice. They’re also widely available and affordable, since you can find them in most sporting goods stores around the world. If you’re on a budget, don’t have access to flow-specific grips, or need something quickly, they can work as a backup option. That said, because they wear out faster and require multiple pieces, they’re usually not the most cost-effective choice long term.

Handlebar grips for bikes, especially cork handlebar tape, are more cushioned than most sports grips. Spades, one of the most well-known contact staff artists, has mentioned loving this grip in some videos online. I’ve personally tried a lot of cork options, and while they feel nice and padded, I haven’t found one that feels particularly grippy. It just goes to show that even high-level artists sometimes use unconventional setups that work for their personal style.

Sports overgrips can also be useful in specific situations. If silicone tubing starts to feel slippery in humid or dusty conditions, you can wrap an “extra tacky” overgrip on top of it. The silicone provides cushion, and the overgrip helps manage sweat. It’s an easy, removable solution. I’d recommend sealing the ends with silicone tape. This is what I do when going to Burning Man!

All that being said, sports grips can still be a good option for props that don’t involve a lot of contact manipulation, such as spin staff and double staff. Their thinner profile can actually be ideal for things like finger twirls and control-based movement, which is why some people prefer them for those use cases.

In Conclusion

• Generally safe on skin
• Thinner than most staff-specific grips
• Need to be replaced more often
• Come in a huge variety of colors and patterns
• Widely available in sporting goods stores
• Lower upfront cost (in most cases)
• Can be used as an overgrip on silicone in humid conditions
• Better suited for props that don’t rely on contact manipulation

Conclusion

Choosing the right grip is important, but it can also be annoying to buy a bunch of different options just to figure out what you like. Ideally, you have a local flow jam where you can try other people’s staffs and get a feel for different grips. That’s not always an option though, so here’s a quick reference guide comparing how these grips stack up.

Keep in mind, this assumes you’re taking good care of your props as all strip grips can technically rip if thrown at concrete. And as mentioned earlier, everyone has different skin textures, so this won’t apply perfectly to everyone. Also, there are a ton of different sports grips, so these are grouped together for simplicity.

Longevity (most to least)

• Silicone Based Grips / Goat
• EPDM
• F-Grip
• Natural Foam Rubber Grip / Micro Gripping Material
• Sports Grips

Grippiness (most to least, heavily opinion based 😂)

• Silicone Based Grips (when clean and dry)
• F-Grip / Natural Foam Rubber Grips
• Goat / Micro Gripping Material
• EPDM
• Sports Grips
• Silicone Based Grips (when sweaty, humid, or dusty)

Price (most expensive to least expensive)

• Micro Gripping Material
• Goat
• Natural Foam Rubber Grips
• F-Grip
• Silicone Tubing
• EPDM
• Sports grips

Note: Pricing heavily varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, where you’re located, and changes over time so this list is not written in stone.

Padding and Cushion (most to least)

• EPDM / Natural Foam Rubber Grips
• Silicone Based Grips
• F-Grip / Goat
• Sports Grips (except cork handlebar tape)
• Micro Gripping Material (depends on what’s underneath it)

Hope this helps you choose your first or next staff grip.

After trying everything, I’ve come to the conclusion that… all grips kind of suck in their own way. 🤣 It really comes down to what you value most. I personally stick with silicone tubing because it’s the most sanitary, easy to clean, and lasts a long time.

Also, once you get used to a certain grip, it can be hard to switch just because you adapt to it over time. I have friends that use sports grip just because their first staff they ever had used it and just can’t get themselves to switch to anything else.

Try things out, experiment, and figure out what works for you. Just don’t overthink it.